Effect of Yarn Structure on Yarn and Fabric Properties Produced using Elitwist Yarn and TFO Yarn - A Comparative Study

Denim is a worldwide popular form of fabric worn by both the genders, all age groups including children, teenagers, adults and old aged persons as well. More than a fashion commodity it has evolved in to a regular wear. Denim garments are preferred due to its typical characteristic, ease of wear, does not require ironing, durable and most suited for travel wear and rough use. The classical form of denim (3/1 twill) which used to be the worn by the work men is still popular, though lot of modifications and value additions have been carried out in the yarn and weaves. Earlier open end yarn was commonly used due to cost economic factors. Further Ring yarn, doubled yarn and its variations were tried to get the required flatness, sheen and appearance. Among the doubled yarn prepared by TFO (Two for one) the popular counts are 2/20s, 2/30s & 2/40s. Now these counts were preferred for manufacturing value added trousers, due to its aesthetic feel and lusture. These doubled yarn merge well with the modified weaves like dobby designs. Cotton Weft yarn with elastane and slubs are in demand by the market. Elastane weft with slubs and fancy patterns add up to the beauty of the fabric. Further enhancement of appearance and feel is made possible by suitable processing route like desizing which makes the fabric softer and absorbant. Mercerizing treatment adds up the lustre and feel of the fabric. Now to optimize the cost factor without affecting the quality and working performance during the manufacturing process, we have adopted the use of Elite compact yarn as an alternate to the conventional, lengthy and costly TFO yarn. Compact doubled yarn has superior characteristics due to the speciality of yarn formation (narrow spinning triangle) and the structure. The advantages are less hairiness, better yarn strength; lesser U% and imperfections /km. The 2/32s TFO yarn is preferred by the garment customers due to its unique structure, better smoothness, better sheen, higher lusture, and clean appearance in the fabric. The TFO yarn was replaced in warp with 2/32s Elite compact yarn and compared for its performance at all the stages of spinning and package stage. Further studies were carried out at all the Denim preparatory, fabric manufacturing and fabric processing sequence like warping, dyeing & sizing (slasher), weaving, processing (singeing, desizing, mercerizing, finishing) and final fabric stage. The fabric characteristics were compared (FTD) for all the physical parameters like dimensional stability (warp wise and weft wise shrinkage, bow and skew), width, gsm, tensile & tear strength (warp & weft wise), stretch recovery, growth. Crocking fastness (dry & wet), washing fastness, Drape co-efficient, pilling, abrasion, stiffness, air permeability etc. Chemical parameters like Indigo gpl, Indigo shade %, pH, Barium Activity no, Desizing Efficiency, Colour fastness to washing were also tested and compared.